panorama software,virtual tour software
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Joined: 2008-10-24
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Still finding my feet...

Hi Guys,


Not been on the forum for a little while hope you are all well.


A few months back you guys gave me some good advice to help me on my slow migration from my dreaded one shot. I am now practicing with My Powershot G9 and a Raynox lens (thanks Smooth for the advice) and a nodal Ninja 180. Still someway to go before I get in to the SLRs etc but I figure get the hang of it first!


I have started to put together some stitched images. A little crude, but bear with me


The first was just done using normal auto settings and 3 shots stitched

Pano 1


For the second I manually set the aperture f8.0 (as I read this somewhere else) and used bracketed exposure, again with 3 shots.


Pano 2


The second is probably higher quality however as you can see I am still getting the issue of slightly different colouring throughout the picture which is resulting in a line where the colour changes. No doubt this is more to do with my lack of knowledge and naivety regarding photography, but I would much appreciate if anyone could send some advice my way on how I can reduce remove this and whether this is done whilst shooting or post production.


Many thanks,



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Joined: 2006-10-23
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You have to use manual mode and keep the aperture and speed identical for the 3 shots (you have to check for overexposed shots which are more difficult to correct).

If some areas are too dark in the final stitched pano, you can further process the shots with tone mapping but at this stage, you should focus on shooting with the good exposure.

Otherwise blending between shots can be more or less satisfying according to the method used (smart blending, etc).

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Joined: 2002-11-23
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At a quick look it would appear you are using Auto White Balance (AWB) this is what will give you different colours.

What Thierry has suggested is correct you need to take full manual control over the camera.

  • Aperture f/8.0
  • Shutter Speed should be set to match the light meter on the most even lit part of the scene and left there.
  • Set the white balance to match the scene (Daylight, Tungsten, Fluro, Shady etc.) Or use the custom white balance setting along with a white balance card or white balance filter.
  • ISO should be at it's lowest possible number 50/100 if possible.
  • Shoot RAW (if possible with your camera) correct Vignetting and Chromatic Aberration and then save as .tif before stitching.

Don't worry about tone mapping until you have the basics right. This will only complicate matters. Once you have excellent results, then you can move on the tone mapping.

Regards, Smooth