panorama software,virtual tour software
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Joined: 2002-11-23
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2008-10-02
#12

Simply use the "Drum" fisheye option.

Regards, Smooth


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2009-12-01
#13
Thank you very much Smooth! Your tips are excellent. Sorry for getting back to you so late but I wanted to try everything out on a large virtual tour project. Everything looks good :) Thanks again.
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2009-11-12
#14
Hello,
I'm having an issue with setting up the correct NPP.

My gear:
Canon 40D + Sigma 8mm 3.5 + Nodal Ninja RD16 + Manfrotto 055XPROB tripod

I'm using Panoweaver 6 Pro.
After importing 4 shots to Panoweaver I stich it and the result looks like that:

After adding some matching points on the floor i get this:
http://venus.wsb-nlu.edu.pl/~wkasperczyk/pano/55_4_p.jpg


I decided to take 6 shots in order to get more circular shape of a tripod head and the results are here:

(IMO this one is actually the roundest)
and here is the same after adding matching points

As you can see on the last one the tiles look better but the tripod shape sucks.

I tried different settings of the rails but at the end i came back to what i found on the nodal ninja website which is 54 mm for the lower rail and 90.5 mm for the upper one.

I don't know what to do next. Please HELP!
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2010-01-10
#15
Smooth:
Although I suspect my calibration of my new Sigma 8 mm 3.5 will be as accurate as my past calibrations, using John's two object method, I am interested in your thoughts about using it with the NN R10 + 5 deg. rig. I can mount it to my RD8 and the same principles should apply even though it will be tilted up 5 rather than down 15.
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2010-01-10
#16
Quote: Originally posted by waters on January-10-2010
Smooth:
Although I suspect my calibration of my new Sigma 8 mm 3.5 will be as accurate as my past calibrations, using John's two object method, I am interested in your thoughts about using it with the NN R10 + 5 deg. rig. I can mount it to my RD8 and the same principles should apply even though it will be tilted up 5 rather than down 15.

Yes, the tilt is of no consequence (only recommended so that the panohead is in view) I have calibrated my NN R1 with Sigma 8mm, Nikkor 10.5mm, Tokina 10-17mm and Canon 15mm all at their "preferred" angles of tilt.

This (OSP) systems works and the proof is in the stitching numbers. That's not to say John's two object method doesn't, it does for perfect NPP but you certainly can get better (lower control point number) results after a little more "zoning" and finding your OSP (Optimal Stitching Position) and this can vary between stitching software brands because of the differing algorithms used.

You really shouldn't need to use the RD-8 (I managed without) but yes a larger clearer edge will be helpful.

Regards, Smooth
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2009-11-12
#17
G'day Kasper,

I will see if I can help you.
First I need to see how you have your panohead and camera put together. Please take a picture of it and post it here so I may see.

Something is not right because you can see the blue knobs of the rotator and the NNRD16 is designed so these are never in view.

(After you have the panohead orientated correctly)
Shoot me 4 (and then 6) pictures at the recommended NN settings and upload them so I may stitch them up and see for myself.

Are you using the upper rail camera plate?

Regards, Smooth
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2009-11-13
#18
I belive that what I use is the upper rail camera plate :)
The blue knobs in the picture were casused by the wrong upper rail setting - I turned it back 180 and now there are no knobs in the field of view.
Results are slightly better but still this is not what it should be.
I took the series of 4 shots and 6 shots once again (with the upper arm in a "new" position. These are taken at 0 degrees.
4 shots - 4_shots.zip
6 shots - 6_shots.zip
camera setup - camera_setup.zip

Thanks for your help Smooth
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2009-11-13
#19
Kasper,

Hmm, you are using the newly released universal anti-twist camera plate and I'm not sure if this equates to the same thickness as the traditional camera plate? Not that this matters as we work with what you have. The point is whether it is relevant to the NN suggested lower rail setting?

Anyway, Your images stitched up reasonable well with the 6 shot evidently better.

The question now becomes: What settings did you use for each set of shots you uploaded?

Best to name your images in this fashion so we don't lose track as we progress. UXX.xLXX.x_001.jpg where XX.x is the numerals in mm. I.E: U90.5L54.0_001.jpg, U90.5L54.0_002.jpg etc.





Understand what I'm doing here is helping you find the correct OSP for your set-up not how to stitch.

I would suggest based on these sets of images you have the left to right just about nailed. The for and aft is close and what we should now do is a series of shots 5mm either side of this setting (in 1mm increments) to compare each with one another.

So if this was Upper Rail 90.5mm then we want next 91.5 and 89.5 to start the comparison.

Please note: If you want to me to do this half the size of the images (before upload) so the download is not as much. We pay by kb here in Australia.

Regards, Smooth
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2009-11-13
#20
For the shots I uploaded before I used the recommended by NN site settings which is U 90.5 and L 54.
I took a series of 4 shots with upper rail at 88.5, 89.5, 90.5, 91.5 and 92.5. Then I did the same with 6 shots.
The results are here:
4 shots: Uxx_L54_4.zip
6 shots: Uxx_L54_6.zip

Thanks,
Kasper
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2009-11-13
#21
Kasper,

I have looked at these new images, unfortunately these are now too small. (50% of the original size is OK)

Also confirm you are not re-leveling between shots (only level up at position 1 and then shoot all images in the panoramic set).

Regards, Smooth