I have stitched and tested your files and can happily report your within a totally acceptable range for the NPP.
I have uploaded you some .pts files and animated .gif files shown the overlapping seam areas. On my stitch in your kitchen the seam is close to perfect. The other pair across the river? shown some small movement but nothing the stitcher and blender wouldn't correct. (If by some chance your image viewer will not display animation simple drag and drop the .gif files onto an open web browser window.)
If you place the .pts files into the same folder as your images you can see the results. (just change the output path for saving). Download here
Getting slightly different lens mm settings is not that unusual. If you make a fully optimised stitch you than would use the resulting .pts file as a template.
The upshot is, your NPP setting is fine. In fact it is quite good.
Hi there Smooth,
I've been using your technique to set my 360Precision Adjuste and have the lower rail now set (was over 10mm out from the advised "official" setting!) and been working on the upper arm.
Apologies for perhaps a daft question but with the upper arm, is the correct point found when the nadir shows a circle covering the nadir?
I created shots from 80mm to 90 mm on the upper rail and my nadir for 90mm shows where I have a near perfect circle covering the smallest hole. Is this the objective?
Again apologies if this is a daft question!
Thank you for putting this very interesting discussion together and to all who have participated - it's been wonderful studying it as I've worked through - and continue to work through - finding the OSP.
In your example given at the beginning of this thread, you've stopped short of including the actual nadir with the net result being the hexagon-shaped hole. I'm curious what the reason was for not aiming the camera down further enough to include the center of the rotator?
Thank you for your interest, I hope you found it useful.
The centre of the rotator is of no interest in setting up the NPP in-fact doing so can confuse the stitcher. In the end you are going to either cap the tripod nadir area or patch it away with View Point Correction or similar.
The object in setting up the NPP requires you to just capture the edge of the panohead so when stitched you can plainly see a round circle. This is typically -15 degrees with the common camera/full frame fisheye combinations.
When it comes to shooting panoramas (after you have found the NPP and OSP) I suggest you only tilt down -10 degrees as capturing the panohead is pointless and not required.
A common shooting sequence would be 6 rotational shots at -10 degrees. 1x Zenith shot at +70 degrees or 2x Zenith shots 180 degrees apposed at +60 - +70 degrees and than a hand held or tilted tripod to capture the Nadir area where the tripod was positioned for the rotational shots.
I'm using an EF-S 10-22 on a Canon 40D. The vrwave.com site recommended: "N, 4 images every 90 at -60 pitch, 8 images every 45 at 0 pitch, 4 images every 90 at +60 pitch, no zenith image required" for this lens. But first, I've wanted to - using your methods outlined here - tweak the head for its OSP. For nearly a week, it's been more like the oops - but I think I'm getting closer. From the image below, are you able to make any suggestions? Or would you require the .pts and photos? If the latter, what is the target file size for the zipped-up package for you as I read earlier (I think it was Kasper) you paid by the Kb.
In case you're wondering, that's a NN5 with RD16 setting on a (modified) fixed tribrach adapter and tribrach on a heavy wooden surveying tripod. I've been using these robust legs for all of my initial tests.
Yes, the nadir footprint looks fine as we see it.
Sounds like you have a surveyor background?
If you would like me to test your images I can certainly do that for you and give you my findings. But really I would also need you to shoot another set of images with enough tilt down so that you are capturing the full outer edge of the NN RD16 rotator in a single rotation set of images.
Size is not an issue as I have upgraded my ISP plan to double what it use to be. So upload them and send me a download link.
I kow this is a very old post but I hope that smooth and others are still around ...
I calibrated my Panosaurus with a EOS 400D/Samyang8mm last night and found an interesting thing: without optimization in PTGUI, the nadir/tripod circle looks very good (to me anyways), but there are minor parallax issues on th efloor and also on the wall.
After optimizing, the parallax issue seem to be gone, however I can see the "tooth" effect in th enadir area. Is this normal?
Can you say something about my settings in general, do they seem fine to you? Sorry for the little sharpness, it was relatively dark and I had to use f5.6 ...
first not optimized pictures
And here after optimization
Thanks a lot!