panorama software,virtual tour software
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Joined: 2002-11-23
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2008-12-10
#12

Rob,

My suggestions for parameters are settings I have used for years and I use these across multiple stitcher's. These are just what I have found to be beneficial to my work. You are welcome to try as many combinations as you like with the parameter options listed in the "readme.txt" file supplied with Smartblend.

Each parameter does a different thing and each is relevant to what you are trying to achieve.

My suggested setting I offered to Steiner was because he is using the exact same camera and lens as myself. (well, one of them!) 

Regards, Smooth


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2008-12-10
#13

I guess it is time for me to catch up with the times.

Back in 04 when I first started shooting panos the desired setting was Av.
No problem with going on over to the M button on my 40D.  I will ask though, do you make adjustments as you rotate for walls with windows and those that do not have windows?

I shoot full Manual all of the time in my studio.  I have just always left my camera in Av mode for panos, thinking that was the way to do it. 
I'm actually researching on how to use a flash unit to avoid all the post with combining images and processing with Photomatix.  I have discovered that using one of my AB800 units would maybe work by adding a globe...SEEN HERE 
Just need to figure out how to keep it near the camera and rotator so that it provides even lighting throughout.

I did a search to see if I could find where I was told to use Av.  Smooth you did post Av or Manual seen HERE.  That was a long time ago...

When doing this search I also came across a bit of a humorous post...
Always remeber that all of us started as newbs.  Step back in time HERE

Thanks Smooth for all the useful information that you provide!


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2008-12-10
#14

ROFL, yes well we all started somewhere

I will say this was not anywhere near my first time with panoramas but it was with the fisheye and Nikon Coolpix. I wonder how many shots ago that was? Not to mention hours....

I also see I'm not a jovial as I once was. Hmm - is it the company I now keep? Or am I just a cranky old bastard these days?

I think you will find that the time I suggested using Aperture Priority was when we switched from the Compact range to DSLR or near enough (again learning - as I still do everyday!). Anyway, as I said Av is OK if you are inside but bright light will knock things about as far as colour is concerned.

Thank for the trip, it was err - trippy!

Regards, Smooth


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2008-12-10
#15
Quote: Originally posted by pixelator on December-10-2008

do you make adjustments as you rotate for walls with windows and those that do not have windows?


No, I don't and it is not something I would suggest. Though you, just like everybody else is going to find a workflow that suits you - that your happy with. I only offer advise from my experience and what others I respect suggest that have vast experience shooting panoramas.

In no way am I saying that there is only one way to skin a cat (as they say!)

Just like Photoshop there are many ways to get the very same result on any giving task.

Regards, Smooth


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2008-12-10
#16

 I'm really glad that you liked the trip!

As far as the company you are keeping or just getting cranky in your old age, I'm not sure.  I know that a lot of us (me mostly) get frustrated with Easy P.  We still have to look at the positive side of things though, great software, great forum with folks like you here.

I'll make the move to shooting in M mode ASAP.  Can't wait to see the results.

I'm thinking of placing my flash unit and globe on a monopod and keep it between me and the rotator.  Should this work it would cut a tremendous amount off my workflow.

 


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Joined: 2002-06-12
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2008-12-10
#17

I find that folks just starting use Av because that work flow usually gets best results faster. 

After several hundred panoramas I would think you probably are well on your way to knowing the cameras capabilities, scene setup, lighting conditions and will most likely move along to the next higher technical work flow level - Manual aperature and shutter speed settings.  Watch your  sharp focusing as the aperature/ speed setting milage will vary.  Run test series before actually doing real work as sharpness will vary with different setting combinations.

Our Best of 2008 World Wide Panorama (21 Dec) entries were taken using Canon 350d (Rebel XT), Sigma 8  f4, on a Agnos RingT and Slik Monopod using Av f/8.  I took mine from the NH Krystal Hotel Roof top Cancun Quintana Roo.  Pat took hers in Valladolid Yucatan. Valladolid is 2.5 hour drive inland on Highway MEX 180 South West of Cancun.   [Mexico Trip March 2008]


/s/
Dave
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2008-12-10
#18
Quote: Originally posted by 360texas on December-10-2008

Watch your sharp focusing as the aperature/ speedsetting milage will vary. Run testseries before actually doing real workas sharpness will vary with different setting combinations.



Hey Dave,
Hope all is well in the lone star state!
What do you mean exactly by sharp focusing?
I thought that we set the focus to manual and set the focusing ring to the infinity symbol...(on the sigma 8mm)


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2008-12-10
#19

In manual mode...  say you set

f/8 and 1/125th sec (if you can)  probably would be very sharp focus point.

f/10 and 1/500th sec you might find the focus is quite different.

Need to create a chart of f/stop and shutter speed that creates the sharpest images

 


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2008-12-10
#20

Pixel,

Do you know if the globe on the flash will evenly light for a fisheye image?  The photos in your link look like a normal lens.  Also, could there be shadow problems at the seam area when moving the light?  Just wondering as never seen flash and fisheye pano.  If it works it could help out in some situations.

Thanks,
TTurner


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2008-12-10
#21

ok.. sorry if I forgot to give you a directional hint on how to do that testing.   Setup 3 feet in front of a brick wall or another flat surface with alot of detail.

Set camera on tripod to Manual and take 1 picture at

f/8 and 1/x sec where x =100 125 250 500

f/11 and 1/x sec where x = 100 125 250 500

f/16 and 1/x sec where x = 100 125 250 500

Then reverse the equation

100 and f/8 f/11 f/16
125 and f/8 f/11 f/16
250 and f/8 f/11 f/16
500 and f/8 f/11 f/16

There will be no difference between 100/sec at f/8  and f/8 at 100 sec

You should keep each group of sample images in their own folder.

Open each group of images in Photoshop at zoom level 100% and closely compare the image sets for 'sharpness'.

What you are gaining with a faster shutter 1/125, 1/500th speed is stop action.

What you are gaining with a wider f/8 or f/11 aperature is effective exposure

We have not yet touched on ISO.  Where a low ISO 50  is low image noise 

So its a trade off.  Only you can view the scene and make a settings decision.


/s/
Dave
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