RAW or JPG for Panos?
Ok, I got in the Nikon D300 today, do you all prefer shooting the images in RAW or JPG for panos?I notice the 1Gig Sandisk Compact flash only holds 49 RAW photos, which is puny.
QuoteIf you choose to acquire another compact flash card suggest you use the read/write speed that matches your D300 raw file size.
For example, My Canon 5d creates 13 - 14 mb raw files on the compact flash card. The SanDisk Ultra II compact card has a 15mb/second rating. So a 14mb raw file can be written to the card in 1 second. Try matching or exceeding the CF cards rating with your cameras raw file size.
I think I got that correct.
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond300/page2.asp
Nikon D300 is a 12.3 megapixel dSLR. (Raw NEF 4288 x 2848 12.2 MPixel)
/s/
Dave
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You should think of the RAW format as a negative and the JPG as a processed photograph.
In the end you require a processed image for stitching but in no way is a camera processed JPG a desirable image.
Your processed images should be output as a (non lossy) format. I.E: 16bit TIF format. JPG format is a lossy format meaning each time it is processed and saved it losses vital information and thus deteriorates somewhat.
The biggest thing to effect images shot with a fisheye lens (outside of distortion) is chromatic aberration (CA) sometimes called colour fringing or colour shift. Whilst it is an easy thing to correct with RAW processing software the camera itself does a very poor job of this when prossesing a crappy JPG.
Without getting into a full tutorial about processing RAW files the bottom line is that RAW is the best way to shoot and JPG should be avoided. That said, if you don't learn how to process a RAW file properly you are wasting your time anyway.
Simply, if you are not shooting RAW and processing the RAW file correctly you are not getting the most from your equipment. Anyone who states differently simply lacks expert knowledge and doesn't know how to process images.
It is possible for the camera to be set to capture both RAW and JPG at the same time. Why this is useful is because you can quickly view the JPG images in an image viewer and maybe even quickly stitch the much smaller JPG files to see if processing the RAW files is worthwhile or if they should simply be discarded.
With my D300 I run Sandisk Ducati Edition UMDA Compact Flash cards with a 45mb/Sec 300x write speed. Understand these speeds that they quote are a maximum speed and rarely reached.
Regards, Smooth
In the end you require a processed image for stitching but in no way is a camera processed JPG a desirable image.
Your processed images should be output as a (non lossy) format. I.E: 16bit TIF format. JPG format is a lossy format meaning each time it is processed and saved it losses vital information and thus deteriorates somewhat.
The biggest thing to effect images shot with a fisheye lens (outside of distortion) is chromatic aberration (CA) sometimes called colour fringing or colour shift. Whilst it is an easy thing to correct with RAW processing software the camera itself does a very poor job of this when prossesing a crappy JPG.
Without getting into a full tutorial about processing RAW files the bottom line is that RAW is the best way to shoot and JPG should be avoided. That said, if you don't learn how to process a RAW file properly you are wasting your time anyway.
Simply, if you are not shooting RAW and processing the RAW file correctly you are not getting the most from your equipment. Anyone who states differently simply lacks expert knowledge and doesn't know how to process images.
It is possible for the camera to be set to capture both RAW and JPG at the same time. Why this is useful is because you can quickly view the JPG images in an image viewer and maybe even quickly stitch the much smaller JPG files to see if processing the RAW files is worthwhile or if they should simply be discarded.
With my D300 I run Sandisk Ducati Edition UMDA Compact Flash cards with a 45mb/Sec 300x write speed. Understand these speeds that they quote are a maximum speed and rarely reached.
Regards, Smooth
I understand you are taking a trip and will be shooting a lot of images. If shooting in raw you will need a lot of cards or somewhere to download the images. If you are taking your laptop you may look at taking along an external harddrive. I use the Sandisk 8gb cards and only get about 400,or less, images per card in Raw.
Nikon D300, D3s, Nikon 10.5 lens, RingT105N+Footplate+MrotatorTCPs, Giottos MT9261 Tripod, Manfrotto 410 Jr geared head.
If you know the "secret" then everyday is a good day!
Nikon D300, D3s, Nikon 10.5 lens, RingT105N+Footplate+MrotatorTCPs, Giottos MT9261 Tripod, Manfrotto 410 Jr geared head.
If you know the "secret" then everyday is a good day!
I use 2- 8GB sandisk cards for one property.
One of them for still and the other one is for pano.
I set my D300 to Raw+small,basic jpg"for quick viewing.
I have never ran out of space.
I also have a back up 16BG for HDR shoots.
You don't have to worry about the speed of the card when you do
Real Estate or landscape photography.
tking
One of them for still and the other one is for pano.
I set my D300 to Raw+small,basic jpg"for quick viewing.
I have never ran out of space.
I also have a back up 16BG for HDR shoots.
You don't have to worry about the speed of the card when you do
Real Estate or landscape photography.
tking
I get the impression that the only time speed of the card would come into play is when you are doing multiple shots automatically, like 6 frames per second.
Since I don't need that I trust I can use something like a Sandisk Extreme 3 but get a 16 Gb card.
I hear the Kingstons are pretty good too.
Since I don't need that I trust I can use something like a Sandisk Extreme 3 but get a 16 Gb card.
I hear the Kingstons are pretty good too.